Honey Bee Halter

Size Inclusive Advanced Beginner Crochet Top

I don’t know about you, but I am a sucker for anything with bees on it. The moment I saw this rich honey coloured yarn by Loops & Threads at Michael’s all I could think of was “I have to make a bee design”. I can honestly say I am in love with this design and I hope you are too.

What really brought it to life though is seeing all pattern tester versions. So many gorgeous colours and this top has been made in other light fingering weight yarns with great results.

This pattern is written for following sizes:

XS – Bust 29” (74 cm)

S – Bust 32.5” (83 cm)

M – Bust 38” (97 cm)

L – Bust 42″ (107 cm)

XL – Bust 45.5″ (116 cm)

2X – Bust 49″ (125 cm)

3X – Bust 52.75″ (134 cm)

4X – Bust 56.25″ (143 cm)

5X – Bust 60″ (153 cm)

It calls for Light Fingering weight yarn. Woolike by Loops & Threads from Michael’s and a 3.75mm hook.

This is an advanced beginner pattern. Photo stitch tutorials are provided.

Purchase the PDF from Etsy, Ravelry, or LoveCrafts here:

This pattern will be available on my website in the near future. I am much better at stitching than I am at technology so bear with me.

I hope that you love this pattern.

Please contact me should you have any questions.

Share your make with us using the hashtag #honeybeehalter on instagram. Tag @love.lindz

Love, Lindz

Summer Strawberry Tank

Free Crochet Pattern

As soon as I came across this adorable strawberry stitch I knew I had to wear it. I wanted an easy pattern, but one that would for some shaping. Thus the Summer Strawberry Tank was born.

I have been dreaming of strawberry picking and the smell of green grass. Sadly it is quite cold still in mid June in the Canadian Arctic so for now I will wear my top and pretend.

This is an easy, beginner friendly pattern. It uses mainly just the double crochet stitch. It has no increases or decreases and no seaming required as it is worked in the round. The chain spaces used to create a waist cinching belt allows you to pull it in a little to show off your waist.

The pattern can be adjusted to be longer, you can get creative with colours, and you can also mix up where you place the belt eyelets. Here are some gorgeous versions done by testers:

You can purchase a printable PDF from these sites:




The Pattern


Hook Size: 4.5mm G/7

Yarn: Worsted Weight Category 4 

Caron Simply Soft: Colour of Choice (Examples shown are Black and Off White) 

XS – 2 skeins, approx 342 yards 

S- 2 skeins, approx 397 yards

M – 2 skeins, approx 425 yards

L – 2 skeins, approx 494 yards

XL – 2 skeins, approx 549 yards

2X – 2 skeins, approx 591 yards

3X – 3 skeins, approx 646 yards

4X – 3 skeins, approx 687 yards

5X – 3 skeins, approx 743 yards

All sizes -1 skein Red, 1 skein Kelly Green 

Additional Materials

Blunt needle for weaving in ends

Measuring tape


Stitch Markers


 4”x4” = 8 rows x 14 stitches(dc)

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

Sl = slip stitch

Ch = chain

Ch-sp = chain space

Sc = single crochet

Dc = double crochet

**[ ] = repeat

Pattern Notes:

Pattern written for size XS with (( S, M, L, XL),( 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)) in brackets as shown

Finished Dimensions:

Width: XS – 29” ((S- 33”, M – 37”, L – 41”, XL – 45”)(2X – 49”, 3X – 53”, 4X – 57”, 5X – 61”))

Length: 15”

  • It is very important to not make your initial chain too tight, or your top will feel snug at the bottom. Chain loosely.
  • Ensure that when joining your rounds you are not adding or dropping stitches and maintain the same number of stitches for every round. 
  • Chain 3 at the beginning of the rows counts as a stitch. 

Strawberry stitch

Using Red yarn: Yo, insert crochet hook into next st, dc 6 times in the same stitch, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first st made, place dropped red  lp back on your hook and pull Green yarn through the st. Insert hook between each red stitch and yo, pull up lp until 6 lps on hook. Yo pull through all lps on your hook. Using Black yarn, Ch 1. Tug everything tightly into place. See photos for reference.


Round 1: LOOSELY Ch 99 ((115, 123, 143, 159)(171,187,199,215)) being careful not to twist the ch, sl st into the first ch to form a ring. 

Rounds 2-13: Ch 3. Dc in the next ch and each ch around. sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join. 

99 sts ((115, 123, 143, 159)(171,187,199,215 sts))

If you would like your top to be longer than 15”, add a few rows before continuing on to the instructions for Round 14.

Round 14: This is where we will make the eyelet openings for our waist tie.

Ch3. Dc in the next two st. **[Ch 1. Skip the next st and place 1 Dc in the next 3 st] repeat this 23 times ((27,29,34,38)(41,45,48,52 times))until you reach the end of the round and connect with a sl st. 

74 sts & 24 ch-sp((87 sts & 28 ch-sp, 93 sts & 30 ch-sp, 108 sts & 35 ch-sp, 120 sts & 39 ch-sp)(129 sts & 42 ch-sp,141 sts & 46 ch-sp,150 sts & 49 ch-sp,162 sts & 53 ch-sp))

Rounds 15-30: Ch 3. Dc in the next st and each st around. Sl st to join.

99 sts ((115, 123, 143, 159)(171,187,199,215 sts))

Round 31: Ch 3. Dc in the next st. Dc in the next st, but before pulling your yarn through the last two loops on your hook switch to Red yarn and pull it through the last two loops. In the next st, Strawberry Stitch *see pattern notes*. Lay the red and green yarn down over the st of the row below and dc over the two colours using Black into each of the next 3 st. This will allow you to ‘carry’ all three colours of yarn through the entire round *see image below*. **[Strawberry st in the next st, dc in the following 3 sts.] Complete this 22 times ((27,29,34,38)(41,45,48,52 times))until you reach the end of the round and connect with a sl st. Cut green and red yarn leaving a 5” tail. Weave in ends. 

74 sts & 24 strawberries((87 sts & 28 strawberries, 93 sts & 30 strawberries, 108 sts & 35 strawberries, 120 sts & 39 strawberries)(129 sts & 42 strawberries,141 sts & 46 strawberries,150 sts & 49 strawberries,162 sts & 53 strawberries))

Rounds 32-33: Using black yarn, Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Sl st to join. See image below of where to complete the sc sts

99 sts ((115, 123, 143, 159)(171,187,199,215 sts))  

Finishing: Cut yarn leaving a 5” tail and pull through the last lp. Weave in ends. 


Starting from the sl st join of round 33, count clockwise (in the same direction you have been crocheting with the right side facing you) out to the 12((14,16,18,20)22,24,26,28) st and place a stitch marker here. then count to the 28((31,34,38,41)45,49,52,55) st and place another stitch marker. Continue counting for another 28((31,34,38,41)45,49,52,55) st and place a stitch marker. Lastly, count 28((31,34,38,41)45,49,52,55) more st and place your final stitch marker there. This is where your straps will be located. I suggest trying the top on and making sure you are happy with the strap placement and adjust as needed.

Starting at your first stitch marker, connect your yarn (main body colour or red) and ch 46. Sc in the second ch and all the way down. Sl st into the next st. Sl st again into the next stitch after that, turn and sc in each sc st to the end (45 st). Cut yarn leaving a 5” tail and weave in ends. Complete these steps at each stitch marker. See photos below. You can hide the slip stitches when you weave in the end.

 Waist tie:

Lay your top down flat. Cut 3 lengths of Red yarn roughly 5 times the width of the top. Tie the 3 pieces together in a knot 3 “ from the top. Tape the end to the floor in front of you and braid all the way down until you have 3” remaining. Tie the end in a knot. Fray the ends of the yarn strands. Starting at the back center, weave the waist tie in and out of the ch1 spaces until you reach the middle of the front of the top. Do the same on the other side and loosely tie in a bow at the front of the top. 

Thank you so much for your support!

Please feel free to share any pictures of your finished makes on instagram and tag @love.lindz and use the hashtag #summerstrawberrytank

If you have any questions you can email me at: lovelindzcrochet@gmail.com



Crochet Materials 101


Let’s start with yarn! So many sizes, colours, and fibers to choose from. How do I know what yarn to use? Does it matter? Why are some more expensive than others?

What do you call a ball of yarn?

While you can still call it all a ball of yarn (you do you, boo) yarn can be categorized in four main forms: balls, skeins, hanks or cakes.

A ball of yarn is just what it sounds like. It is round or spherical wound yarn. It can either be pulled from the outer loose end, or the center. Some crocheters will wind the smaller bits of yarn they have left for a project into a ball to prevent it from tangling as it gets smaller.

A skein (pronounced like plane – sk-ane) is wound into oval/oblong shaped yarn. You can either take the label off and use the loose end of yarn from the outside, or hopefully, you can find the end of the yarn in the center of the skein and pull from the middle. This is preferable as then the skein doesn’t roll all over the place. It can be placed in a bag, a yarn bowl, or next to you and does not need to move since you are pulling from the center.

A hank is a coiled loop of yarn. It is not ready to use in this form. Trust me. I learned this the hard way when I bought my very first hank of expensive merino wool. You must wind a hank in order to use it, otherwise it will turn to a tangled mess! Without a yarn winder, this is a very labour intensive task, but can be done using your feet, or a friend, and an empty toilet paper roll. Most commercial yarn is already wound in a skein, so if you are a beginner you likely won’t have to do this.

A cake is yarn wound into a round sided, but flat top and bottom ‘cake’ shape. These are typically center pull making them convenient as they do not roll around.

Yarn isn’t limited to just these terms though. Sometimes you see ‘pull skein‘, ‘donut‘, or cones, among other terms.

Yarn Weights

Yarn is categorized by it’s thickness/weight. Mainstream yarn retailers will have a label on the yarn containing symbols for the weight category. Below is a symbol chart for standard yarn weight category symbols from the Craft Yarn Council (CYC). You can visit their site directly for tons of information for both knitting and crochet.

[Source: Craft Yarn Council’s http://www.YarnStandards.com ] [www.CraftYarnCouncil.com]

The chart above shows that as the yarn increases in thickness, you will typically have the following:

  • Increase your hook or needle size as the yarn thickens
  • You will crochet fewer stitches per inch
    • Not shown, but commonly you will also have less yards/meters per skein of yarn as it increases in thickness

When starting out, you often make dish cloths and hats. The most commonly used weight of yarn for things is a Category 4, Worsted Weight Yarn. Not all worsted weights are created equal though. If you are making an article of clothing and you are swapping the yarn you want to use, it is always smart to do a swatch to double check your gauge. Have no idea what I just said? Don’t worry, we will get to that.

Yarn Length

A common cause of confusion when starting out is “how much yarn do I need?”. Yarn labels will show the length of yarn contained in the skein/ball/cake/hank. It is commonly shown in yards, meters, and grams. Most North American patterns utilize yards as their unit of measurement. A pattern should show how many yards are required per size item you are making. If you choose to swap one yarn brand for another, make sure that you are purchasing the right amount as number of yards per skein can vary greatly among brands.

Fiber Types

There is an incredible array of fiber types to crochet with! Picking your type of yarn usually depends on a few things:

  • Project Type – Are you making a winter sweater? Summer top? Bathing suit? Kitchen towels? Blanket? The type of yarn you select will depend on what you will use the finished item for.
  • Fabric preference: Natural Fibers vs Synthetic.
  • Structure of finished make: Do you want the item to be stiff/structured? Flowy with drape? The yarn chosen will affect the feel of the finished project.
  • Budget: Natural fibers of course are usually more expensive than synthetic.

Acrylic tends to be the most affordable type you see. It is typically easy to work with and can often be found machine washable and dryable. You can find premium acrylic yarns that have a nice softness and stitch definition, and you can find cheap acrylic which tends to be not as soft and doesn’t have as nice of a structure once crocheted. There are also novelty acrylic yarns like faux fur yarn. Acrylic yarn is great for beginners.

Things that will go in water such as bathing suits and dish cloths are typically made with cotton yarn. It has a lot of structure and strength. In my experience, I don’t typically order 100% cotton yarn online. They can vary greatly in softness, so this is a fiber I prefer to feel with my hands in person before buying depending on the project I want to use it for.

Bamboo yarn has a beautiful softness, sheen, and drape. You will sometimes find it blended with cotton to combine those features with the durability of cotton. Great for warmer weather makes.

For a more luxurious item with warmth you can utilize real wool, alpaca, or if you are really spoiled, muskox.

There are of course endless types and many blends of yarns. Sometimes this is the perfect fit for a specific project. I used a beautiful merino wool/nylon blend for a fitted top with stretch and softness. Experiment and find what you like!

Crochet Hooks

Standard Crochet Hooks

Crochet hooks come in various sizes. They have two different measurement units: US Size Range and Metric Size Range. On many crochet hooks, both of these are written on the side of hook somewhere. I find I typically pay attention to the metric sizing as this is the most commonly used one in patterns.

The chart above shows generally what size hook you would use per yarn weight, however most commercial yarn labels will also provide you with the recommended hook size.

You can find hooks made out of wood, plastic, and metal. I personally prefer a metal crochet hook. I like the way they feel and find the glide through the yarn easier. That being said, I would love to own a beautiful wood or bamboo interchangeable Tunisian crochet hook set someday. Anyway, this little set from Michael’s is great to get you started.

Tunisian Crochet Hooks

Speaking of Tunisian crochet hooks! What is that? Tunisian crochet hooks differ from regular crochet hooks only in length really. While they use the same metric measurements (i.e. 6mm, 9mm, etc.) they are usually longer because in Tunisian crochet you keep all your stitches on your hook. This means that the width of your crochet item depends on how many stitches can fit and stay on your hook at once. You often see these hooks referred to as Afghan hooks as well and sometimes they are double ended. When I decided to give Tunisian crochet a try (which I HIGHLY recommend you do as well once you get into crochet) I bought this inexpensive set of bamboo Tunisian crochet hooks with flexible cables. So far they have met all my needs.

Additional Materials

So now that we have covered the two major supplies (yarn and hooks) let’s talk about the other handy little items you will need. You can get all of this stuff from Michael’s or Walmart or wherever you like. They don’t have to be fancy.

Measuring Tape

You’re going to need to get used to measuring things. If you want to start crocheting garments this is vital. I recommend a 60″ seamstress type measuring tape so that you can use it for body measurements.


Get yourself some nice sharp little scissors. I actually use inexpensive hair cutting scissors that are nice and sharp, or if I am traveling I use cuticle scissors. They are small enough that you are allowed to have them in your carry on!

Stitch Markers

Stitch markers are little pins that help you keep track of where a stitch pattern changes, where you might need to decrease or increase, or where the row ends or begins. They are incredibly helpful and as a beginner I would use them to help me identify where the last stitch in the row was. This can be difficult to see when you aren’t familiar with what you are looking for, and missing the last stitch can cause your piece to get smaller and smaller unintentionally as you ‘drop’ stitches. This is a very frustrating thing so the stitch markers help prevent that! Also, you do not need hundreds of these. A small pack of 10 or 20 should be plenty.

Blunt Needles

When I started crocheting and made my first hat, I assumed that to sew up a hat I needed a pointy needle and thread. This is not the case. You need a blunt needle and you will use the yarn you made the item with to seam it up. Not too bad right? I found this little set of a large and small blunt needles at Walmart and I use them for basically everything. The only time I have had to use smaller (and sharper) needles is when my button holes are too small for my blunt needles. Something like this duo should be plenty for a beginner though.


Blocking Mats & Blocking Pins

You do not need these as a beginner getting started. Blocking means to wet your finished item either by spritzing it with water, steaming it, or fully wetting it and pinning it in place until it is completely dry. You do this mainly to garments or shawls to finish the item. Sometimes projects curl while you are making them from the style of crochet (Tunisian tends to curl a lot) or the tension used, and blocking helps relax it into the final shape it will take. You don’t block hats or anything like that so as a newbie you won’t need this. It is just something to consider down the road as blocking really finishes off a piece!

So what do I need?

If you are brand spanking new to crochet and trying your very first project, I recommend buying an inexpensive Worsted Weight (Category 4) yarn from Walmart, a 6.0mm hook (or a basic hook set like the one recommended above), any scissors, any measuring tape, a blunt needle, and some stitch markers. All in all you should not spend more than $30.00. This way, if you find it really isn’t for you, no biggie.



Lacy hair ribbon


I love the sweet touch this hair ribbon adds to my messy buns or keeping my hair out of my eyes. It’s versatile, and even better, it’s a quick stash busting pattern with no Tunisian hook required!

This is essentially the product of me learning the Tunisian Lace Stitch. Using the soft Super Fine (1) Loops & Threads Woolike from Michael’s with a larger hook (6.00mm/J-10) you get a light and lacy ribbon for adding a feminine touch to your ensemble. The other beautiful thing about this fast pattern is that it doesn’t have to be perfect, so it’s great practice with something usable as the end result. Don’t you just love that?

Even if you are new to Tunisian crochet I highly recommend you give it a try! It is a whole new world of possibilities!

Down to Business

This is a free pattern, however you can purchase a printable PDF at the following links:

On Ravelry

On Etsy

The Lacy Hair Ribbon


Yarn: Loops & Threads Woolike in Navy. Approx 20 yards

Hook: 6.00mm/J-10

Blunt Needle



Ch : chain

St : stitch

Sl st: slip stitch

FwP: Forward Pass

RetP: Return Pass

Yo : Yarn Over

Lp : Loop

*[ ]* : Repeat instructed number of times

The Pattern

Please do not sell or distribute this pattern as your own. You may sell finished makes from this pattern, but please credit it back to lovelindz.ca, instagram @love.lindz, and Ravelry: LoveLindz.

Row 1 Foundation Row (FwP): Ch 17. Insert your hook into the back bump in each st across. You should have 17 lps on your hook

Row 1 Foundation Row (RetP): Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1. *[Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1]* Repeat [2] more times until 1 lp remains on your hook.

Row 2 (FwP): *[Insert hook into ch 1 sp on top of cluster. Yo and pull up a lp. Insert hook into each of the ch 3 and pull up a lp in each]* repeat to the end. Double check to ensure you have 17 lps on your hook.

Row 2 (RetP): Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1. *[Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1]* Repeat [2] more times until 1 lp remains on your hook.

Row 3 – 43: Repeat Row 2 Fwp & RetP until you reach your desired length. My hair ribbon measures approximately 24″ long and approximately 3.5″ wide unstretched.

Row 44: Slip stitch bind off. Pull up a lp as you would normally for the FwP, but instead of keeping the lp on your hook, sl st to bind off.

Weave in ends.

If you are a visual person, please see image instructions below:

Row 1 Foundation Row (FwP): Ch 17. Insert your hook into the back bump in each st across. You should have 17 lps on your hook

Row 1 Foundation Row (RetP): Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1. *[Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1]* Repeat [2] more times until 1 lp remains on your hook.

Row 2 (FwP): *[Insert hook into ch 1 sp on top of cluster. Yo and pull up a lp. Insert hook into each of the ch 3 and pull up a lp in each]* repeat to the end. Double check to ensure you have 17 lps on your hook.

Row 2 (RetP): Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1. *[Ch 3. Yo and pull through 5 lps. Ch 1]* Repeat [2] more times until 1 lp remains on your hook.

Row 3 – 43: Repeat Row 2 Fwp & RetP until you reach your desired length. My hair ribbon measures approximately 24″ long and approximately 3.5″ wide unstretched.

Row 44: Slip stitch bind off. Pull up a lp as you would normally for the FwP, but instead of keeping the lp on your hook, sl st to bind off.

Weave in ends.

If you have any questions or find any errors please let me know. Feel free to share photos of you rocking your pretty hair ribbon on instagram @love.lindz using the hashtag #lacyhairribbon ! Also, am I the only one that thinks of the movie Matilda when I hear “pretty hair ribbon”?

Please do not sell or distribute this pattern as your own. You may sell finished makes from this pattern, but please credit it back to lovelindz.ca, instagram @love.lindz, and Ravelry: LoveLindz.



Welcome to Love, Lindz

Thank you for checking out my blog. My name is Lindsay (Lindz) and I am a former world traveler, cooking & baking enthusiast, crochet obsessed country girl living in the Canadian Arctic.

Fun Facts about Me

  • I am a twin (this seems to be my go-to answer when you have to play those ‘break the ice’ games telling the group something interesting about yourself)
  • I hate oatmeal
  • I love potatoes. I am potatoes
  • I love iced espresso (my addiction is a well known trait of mine)
  • I’ve lived in 4 different provinces/territories in Canada (Ontario, Alberta, British Columbia, Nunavut)
  • Growing up I had an imaginary friend named Corn. She lived in a red brick house by the sea and every day was her birthday
  • I used to collect anything that had purple butterflies on it
  • I have visited 20 countries and been on over 200 airplanes
  • I hate doing the dishes. I have a terrible habit of filling the sink to wash them and then getting distracted and letting the water get cold

The reason I started this blog was to share my interests and passions with like minded people.

I absolutely love crochet. From the moment I realized I could make something I could use or wear from a ball of yarn, I was hooked! (So punny). I love crochet in the way that I love cooking. I can create something amazing from basic supplies that nourishes me and the ones I love. It’s a sharing of knowledge, traditions, and creativity through each recipe or pattern.

I’ve been fortunate in my 30 years of life to have seen many places, tasted many foods, made many things, and now am learning to grow and forage many ingredients. How lucky am I?

So here I am sharing whatever knowledge, traditions, and creativity I can with all of you.

Love, Lindz